Bagiyang ingin membeli dalam jumlah banyak silahkan tinggalkan pesan melalui pesan Whatsapp, Insya Allah kami berikan penawaran harga terbaik. Full Support. Admin fast respond & ramah. Double QC. Barang Kuat & Berkualitas sudah Double QC (Quality Check) 100% Real Pic ABUBA Sering kita mendengar istilah tailor, konveksi dan garment Keputusanbisnis ini diatur dalam standar ANSI Z1.4 yang dikenal dengan istilah switching rule (aturan pengalihan). 7. Terapkan switching rule. Dalam ANSI Z1.4 untuk masing-masing sampling plan terdapat tiga tingkatan inspeksi (inspection severity), yaitu tightened (diperlonggar), normal, dan reduced (diperketat), yang mana: Istilahtersebut diperkenalkan pertama kali oleh Richard Antillon pada tahun 1755 (Hirsdrich, 2005). Istilah ini semakin populer setelah digunakan oleh pakar ekonomi J.B. Say pada tahun 1803 untuk menggambarkan para pengusaha yang mampu memindahkan sumber-sumber daya ekonomis dari tingkat produktivitas rendah ke tingkat produktivitas yang lebih Vay Tiền Nhanh. 0% found this document useful 0 votes206 views10 pagesOriginal TitlePertemuan 5-Istilah – istilah dalam QC GarmentCopyright© © All Rights ReservedShare this documentDid you find this document useful?0% found this document useful 0 votes206 views10 pagesPertemuan 5-Istilah - Istilah Dalam QC GarmentOriginal TitlePertemuan 5-Istilah – istilah dalam QC GarmentJump to Page You are on page 1of 10 You're Reading a Free Preview Pages 5 to 9 are not shown in this preview. Reward Your CuriosityEverything you want to Anywhere. Any Commitment. Cancel anytime. Apakah anda adalah seorang karyawan baru sebagai Quality kontrol di industri garment manufaktur? atau kah anda pingin melamar bagian ini?Jika iya and mesti baca dulu artikel di bawah ini ,ini adalah artikel tentang contoh istilah yang di gunakan oleh Quality Control di industri garment manufaktur dalam bahasa Inggris1. SKIP STITCH ON.....-loncat2. RUN OF STITCH ON....- meleset3. FRACTURED AT.../BURDST ON...-jebol4. UNEVEN JOIN STITCH ON....-dua STITCH ON.....-jahitan putusArtikel lainnya*Bagaimana cara mengukur baju di garmen*Pertanyaan interview quality control di pabrikgarmen*6. PUCKERING AT......-jahitan mengkerut7. PLEAT SEWED AT-kelipat8. VISIBLE PLN HOLE AT....-banyak bekas jarum pinggir kain 9. NEEDLE CHEW AT...-Bekas Jarum Tumpul/bekas Dedel10. UNTIDY JOIN STITCHING AT...-Sambungan Jahitan Tidak Rata11. INCOMPLETE STITCH AT...atreyan/jahitan kurang panjang12. TWISTED AT...Melilit13. HIKING BOTTOM HEM-Klim Bawah Naik14. BUBLING/FULLNESS-Gelembung/Melendung15. UNEVEN STITCHING ON...-Stich Tidak Rata/tidak Lurus16. …..CURVE AREA NOT ROUND-Bulatan Tidak Bagus17. NOT STRAIGHT-Tidak Lurus18. POOR....SHAPE-Bentuk Jelek19. NOT FOLLOWING PATTERN/SAMPLE MISING-Tidak Sesuai Pola20. WRONG PATTERN-Salah Pola21. GATHERED STITCHING ON...-Atretan Kebanyakan22. CROOKED STITCH/WAVY,STITCHING AT...-Stitch Tidak Rata Naik Turun Besar Kecil 23. UNNECESSARY STITCHING AT...-Jahitan Tidak Perlu24. INCORECT SPACE/ TIE GAP-Bukaan Kerah Salah25. HIGH LOW-Tinggi Sebelah26. OVERLAP COLLAR GAP- Krah Tumpang Tindih27. WRONG/FAULTY-Salah28. NOSE EXTENSION- Balap29. UNEVEN-Pengambilan Jahitan Tidak Sama30. PERMANENT GREASE MARKAT-Noda Minyak Tidak Hilang31. DIRTY/ STAIN-kotor32. LUMP OF THREAD AT-Jahitan Benang Bergumpal33. UNSMOOTH CURVE ON- Bagian Bulatan/belokan Tidak Bagus34. JOIN STITCHING ON...-Ada Jahitan/ Sambungan35. SEAM GAPPING AT-Stitch Kurang Terbuka36. INSUFFICIENT STITCHING ON....BUTTON-Benang Kancing Sedikit/kurang37. UNCLEARED THREAD AT...-Benang Belum Dibersihkan38. MISS ALLINGMENT OF BAND BTTN TO FRONT BTTN- Kancing Kerah tidak Sejajar Dengan Kancing Badan39. UNBALANCE....-Tidak Jalur/ Tidak Rata40. MISS MATCH-Tidak Matching41. SEAM GRIN AT....-Stitch Terlalu Terbuka42. MISSING...Tidak Ada43. UNEVEN...LENGHT-Panjang tidak sama44. UNEVEN...WIDTH-Lebar Tidak Sama45. EXESS STITCHING AT....-Jahitan Lebih46. BUNCHED STITCHING AT...-Jahitan Bertabrakan47. SPACE-Jarak48. STAY STITCH SHOWING AT...-Jahit bantu Kelihatan49. UNSECURE....STITCH AT...-jahitan Merudul50. INCORRECT SPACE- Space Tidak Benar51. COLLAR BAND TOP STITCH-Jalur Kaki Kerah52. COLLAR SETTING STITCH SHOWING-Jahit Pasang Kerah Kelihatan Setelah Tutup Kerah53. COLLAR POINT NOT SHARP- Ujung Krah Kurang Lancip54. POOR COLLAR BAND SHAPE-Bentuk Bulatan Kaki Kerah Jelek55. COLLAR CLOSING-Tutup Kerah56. FULLNESS AROUND COLLAR-Gelembung Sekeliling Krah Bag. Badan 57. PUCKERING AROUND COLLAR-Mengkerut Sekeliling krah Bagian Depan 58. EXCESS STITCHING AT COLLAR POINT-Jahitan Lebih Pada Pucuk Krah59. SEAM GAPPING AT COLLAR TOP STITCH-Stitch Kerah Atas Belah60. NOSE IN BAND-Pasang Kerah Nonjol61. FRACTURED COLLAR POINT- balik pucuk kerah jebol62. UNSYMETRICAL AT COLLAR SETTING- pasang kerah tidak sesuai63. INCORRECT LABEL SETTING- pemasangan label tidak benar64. FAULTY LABEL-salah label65. UNEVEN LABEL SETTING- pasang label tidak rata66. LABEL OFF CENTER-label kurang SETTING SLANTING-pasang label miring68. ALLOWANCE LABEL SHOWING-pasang label balap69. MISSING LABEL-tidak ada label kelupaan 70. NOT FOLLOWING FOLDED MARK OF LABEL-tidak ikut lipatan label71. FRONT PLAKET SLATING/NOT STRAIGHT-plaket miring/ tidak lurus72. HI-LOW FRONT PLAKET- plaket panjang sebelah73. MISMACH FRONT PLAKET WITH BODY-badan dengan plaket tidak rata74. UNEVEN FRONT PLAKET TOP STITCH-stitch plaket tidak rata75. WAVY A LONG CENTER FRONT- plaket bergelombang76. INCONSISTANT BOTTON POSITION- jarak kancing tidak rata77. POOR POCKET SHAPE- bentuk kantong jelek78. INCORECT POKET BLOKING-bloking kantong tidak benar79. INCORECT POKET PLACEMENT-penempatan kantong tidak benar80. POKET SLANTING- kantong miring81. UNEVEN POKET HEM-klim kantong tidak rata82. FLAPS SHOTER ACHGER IN WIDTH THAN POKET-tutup kantong lebih kecil /panjang dari kantong83. POKET ALLOWANCE VISIBLE OUTSIDE-alowance kantong kelihatan84. PLEATIN IN POKET-pasang kantong kelipat86. EXCESS STITCHING AT POKET BLOKING- jahitan lebih pada bloking kantong86. BOX PLEAT- Ada lipatan pada jahitan kotak87. SIDE PLEAT-Ada lipatan pada jahitan samping88. UNEVEN JOINNING FRONT & BACK YOKE- sambungan bahu depan belakang tidak sama89. UNEVEN STITCHING AT BACK YOKE-stitch bahu belakang tidak rata90. BACK PLEAT OFF CENTER-Lipatan belakang tidak pas tengah91. INCORRECT PLEAT POSITION- posisi lipatan belakang salah92. POOR PLATE SHAPE-bentuk rempel belakang jelek93. 94. JOINING YOKE BACK-Sambungan belakang94. SLEVE SETTING-Pasang Tangan95. UNEVEN JOINING SLEVE & BODY- pasang tangan & badan tidak rata/tidak sama96. UNEVEN SLEVE LENGHT-panjang tangan kiri kanan tidak sama97. UNEVEN SLEVE PLAKET WIDTH-lebar plaket tangan kiri kanan tidak sama98. UNEVEN PLACKET BLOKING-blocking plaket tangan segitiga tangan 99. POOR SLEVE PLACKET SHAPE-bentuk plaket tangan GAPPING AT ARM HOLE STITCH-stitch lingkar lengan kurang GREAT ARM HOLE STITCH- stitch lingkar lengan terlalu ARMHOLE-lingkar tangan STITCH AT ARMHOLE-stik lingkar tangan tidak SIDE SEAM-klim pinggir tidak LOW SIDE SLIT-side slit tidak SIDE SLIT STITCH-stik side slit tidak rata107. RAW EDGE AT SIDE SEAM-kain kelihatan seperti jebol pada klim AT SIDE SEAM-klim pinggir ON CUFF-pasang manset AT CUFF SETTING-pasang manset CUFF SHAPE-bentuk manset HEM-jalur TOP STITCH-stik CURVE AREA NOT ROUND-bulatan manset tidak VISIBLE OUT SIDE AT CUFF TOP STITCH-stik menset CUFF WIDTH-lebar manset CUFF-manset tidak SEAM AT BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah tidak BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah AT BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah AT BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah tidak AT BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah BUTTON-salah BUTTON-kancing pecah/ BUTTON POSITION-posisi kancing BUTTON SPACING-jarak kancing tidak BUTTON STITCHUNG-kancing OF BUTTON-kancing SEWN BUTTON-kancing hanya dijahit ENOUGH THREAD AT BUTTON STITCHING-kancing kurang APART BUTTON HOLE-lubang kancing lebih BUTTON HOLE SPACING-jarak lubang kancing tidak BUTTON HOLE STITCHING-lubang kancing BUTTON HOLE-jahitan lubang kancing ke SIZE STICKER ON POLYBAG-salah BARCODE TAG-salah barcode SPACE TOO BIG/OVERLAP-tie jarak terlalu besar/tumpang OFF CENTER-plaket tidak OFF CENTER-label kurang POLYBAG-polybag IRON-gosokan minyak/kotor/ CHEW-lobang/bekas lobang EDGE-ujung OF STITCH-loncat/putus/melesetIstilah istilah Quality Control di industri garment manufaktur diatas,sering di gunakan dala penemuan cacat pada hasil produksi. Abrasion Resistance The ability of a fabric to withstand loss of appearance or surface through surface wear or rubbing. Acrylic Fiber Generic name for man made fibers derived from polyacrylonitrile. Features a soft , woolly hand ; wash and wear performance ; brilliant high shade colors ; good sunlight and wrinkle resistance. Air Jet Spinning During Air Jet Spinning yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process , the fibers are stretched to the appropriate size , then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted , first in one direction , then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. The yarn is stabilized after each operation. Yarn produced on Air Jet pills less because the spinning process creates a tighter outer wrap which holds typically loose polyester fibers experienced in Open End Spinning in place. Fewer loose polyester fibers means less pilling. Argyle A popular design for knitted fabrics, both hand and machine knit. Two or three colors generally are used in a diamond-shaped pattern. Banded Fabric is folded double and sewn down. Refers to tee shirt collars and staff shirt sleeves Basketweave A variation of a plain weave in which two or more yarns weave alike in both the warpVertical and Filling Horizontal directions. The name probably derives from the similarity to basket work structures. The weave produces a rather LOOSE construction. Berber A texture very similar to Sherpa, but with a heavier, more woolen texture - used for Outerwear Bird's-eye A pattern that resembles a bird’s eye. Buckram backing Stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc. Also used to stabilize embroidery, edges. Burguntal Cloth Constructed from 100% nylon. This durable base fabric has a water repellent finish applied to the face, which prevents water drops from soaking into the back is coated with Polyurethane for added water resistance and wind protection. Byron Collar Collar with large points and not much of a roll; named after the English poet Lord Byron. Cap Sleeves Sleeve type used mainly in ladies styles but is also used in unisex styles. Standard tee sleeve length is approximately to the elbow. Cap sleeves would fall midway between the elbow and the shoulder. Carded Cotton Yarn that has been cleaned, aligned and formed into a continuous untwisted strand but has NOT gone through additional spinning processes like combing or ringspinning. Carding Preliminary process in yarn spinning. Fibers are separated and made into more parallel-untwisted strand called SLIVERS. This process also removes most of the impurities and a certain amount of short or broken fibers. Center line/ Center Crease Helps line up garment for screenprint or - if line is not actually centered,it is more difficult to center logo. Chevron A zigzag stitch VERY similar to Herringbone Colorfast A term used to describe fabrics of sufficient color retention so that no noticeable changes in shed takes place during the “normal” life of the garment. Constructed Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn. Coolmax Certification mark of the Dupont Company, for knitted fabrics made of POLYESTER fibers that are grooved on the outside to facilitate better wicking and moisture evaporation. Cordura Trademark of Dupont Company, for air-textured nylon yarn. Core Vents Efficiently dissipate excess body heat and perspiration vapor. Cotton Cotton is named for a shrubby plant genus Gossypium of the MALLOW family, for the fibers surrounding the seeds, and for the cloth woven from the spun fibers. Each of the seeds, which are contained in capsules, or bolls, is surrounded by white or cream-colored downy fibers that flatten and twist naturally as they dry. Cotton is tropical in origin but is now cultivated worldwide. It has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times. Coverseaming/Coverstitching Two needles to overlap the threads underneath, reinforcing the seams with a smooth layer of threads. looks similar to double needle stitching Crocking The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped a pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking. With the PIGMENT dye process this can occur if the garment is NOT washed before worn. CrossWinds Lightweight wind protection. CrossWinds shells are extremely packable and compressible. Denier Is to polyester as Singles is to cotton, however with Denier, the SMALLER the number of denier the THINNER the strand of polyester and the LARGER the number the THICKER the strand of polyester. This is the OPPOSITE of singles. Dobby When weaving fabric - geometric shapes are woven into the weaving pattern. DryPoint ™ Semi-Oxford A modified basket weave of 100% Nylon coated with Ether-based Poly Urethane. Extremely durable and absolutely waterproof. End-On-End An alternating color or striped effect. Enzyme Wash A fabric softening process that gives a soft hand to fabric and wears the color VERY slightly. Does NOT have a washed out look like PIGMENT DYE. Four-needle stitching Used to reinforce the waistband in shorts and sweatpants. French Placket Is to woven shirts as a set-on placket is to staff shirts. Glen Plaid Popular Scottish pattern for sportswear characterized by checks of two different sizes with similar color patterns. Made in many grades of fabric. Graded Collar The size of the collar changes proportionally with the size of the shirt. Greige Gray Goods Knitted or woven fabrics of all fibers in an unfinished state, after they have been woven and before dyeing or finishing. Grommet An eyelet of firm material ex Metal to strengthen or protect an opening. Gusset Insert as in the sleeve seam or side panel - Crossgrain crew to widen and strengthen. Hand The “feel” of a fabric or print. Heather Blended fibers combined to create a vari-colored effect; heather gray. Heathered fabric typically contains 3 fibers cotton, polyester or rayon. In any of the garments that ALPHA carries an ASH or BIRCH or Heather Grey, Steel Grey, Light Steel, etc. The name may vary per mill these colors are NEVER 100% Cotton. Another fiber MUST be added with the cotton in order to achieve the necessary color. PLEASE NOTE If a fabric contains 95% cotton it can be LEGALLY labeled 100% cotton, however, the mills that ALPHA carries will state the proper content on the garment label for these colors. HyventMicro Failleweave A 100% coated Nylon flat ribbed fabric that is waterproof, windproof and very breathable with excellent abrasion and durability characteristic. Treated with a Durable Water Repellant finish to shed water. Interlock Double knit construction makes this the heaviest of the 3 to a Jersey knit except both front and back of the fabric look is the tightest weave, gives the smoothest surface and the finest hand. Jacquard A design or pattern in the fabric and/or collar Kangaroo Pocket A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the Middle.See Also muff pocket Kasha lining A lining principally for jackets featuring cotton flannel, napped face and imitation chambray back Knapping Refers to the inside of a fleece garment. Garment fabric brushed with a wire brush to give a very soft hand. Kodel Polyester fiber created and trademarked by Eastman Kodak Co. Lisle Yarn Refers to type of yarn. This type of yarn has a soft hand is a very fine count singles and is 2 ply. Low Profile Any crown of a cap that is LESS than 4” in height. Not to be confused with DO have low profile caps that are STRUCTURED. Lyocell Generic name for TENCEL Marled Yarn Twisting a solid color yarn with a yarn of various colors to create a varied color effect. Medium Weight Classification for fabric of 22 to 24 single yarn, where the number of yarn denotes the overall fabric weight. Melton Wool A heavily felted non-lustrous fabric. The heaviest type is used in outerwear. Mercerization Treatment for fabric cotton yarn or cloth that swells the fiber and gives it LUSTER or shine. Slightly preshrinks yarn and makes it stronger. This also helps with dye acceptance and improves fabric absorbency. Moleskin Supposed to simulate fur of a mole. Carded cotton is knapped or brushed and then sheared for smoothness to provide a suede fur effect. MTR Fleece™ Maximum Thermal Retention A non-pilling, 100% polyester fleece that provides a soft, warm insulating layer. Weighing about half as much as wool, MTR Fleece™ is quick drying and remains warm even when wet. Muff pocket A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the middle. See also kangaroo pocket Nailhead A woven in or engineered design. Neoprene A generic name for a type of synthetic rubber. Nu-Blend Jerzees Trademark process of spinning yarn that virtually eliminates pilling. Omni-Dry™ Process keeps you dry and warm whatever the activity by drawing moisture to the fabric face where it wicks across the surface and evaporates. The rate of evaporation increases with the amount of moisture. Open End Spinning A system of spinning based on the concept of introducing twist to the yarn by rotating the yarn end at a gap in the flow of fibers between the delivery system and the yarn package; a much faster operation than ring spinning. Open-end yarn has a coarser hand than ring spun cotton. Oxford A modified plain or weave. Can be striped or checked by using groups of various colored yarn. Piece Dyed This term is used when the knitted cloth is dyed, prior to being assembled into a finished product. Pilling Accumulation of fibers on the surface of a fabric, caused by wear and washing. In 50/50 fabric, cotton fibers tear and become tangled with the stronger fibers on the surface of the higher cotton content results in less pilling. Pima Cotton Refers to type of cotton. Originally grown by the Pima Indians in the South West part of the United States. It’s natural color is yellow as opposed to white for other cotton. It’s a very fine, long staple refers to the length of the individual fibers cotton. It is a very soft and strong fiber that accepts dye well. Pinwale A very narrow ridge or rib in a fabric from 16 to 23 wales to the inch EX Pinwale corduroy. Pique Pee-kay A knit sometimes called LaCoste because that company popularized its a distinct right and wrong right side resembles a Honey Comb or a waffle and the wrong side is flat and a course firm hand an generally uses fine yarns. Placket A slit extending down the front of a shirt from the neck. The slit is usually secured with buttons Poly Nosic Type of fabric that has a TWILL texture with a VERY soft “silk like” feel. This fabric will also protect against 95% of the UV rays from the sun. Quarter Turning Eliminates the center line by rotating the shirt at 900 so that the fold line is then under the arms. Currently, imprinters like this feature because it eliminates the center line. Quilted jacket Jacket featuring a lining with two or more layers and a padded filling. Raglan A type of sleeve sewn in with seams slanting outward from the neck to the underarm. Reinforced Placket X-Box A square or rectangular sewn area used to strengthen and reinforce the bottom of a placket. Rib knit A form of knit fabric with vertical rows of knitting loops visible on both sides of the fabric features more elasticity than jersey knit. Ring Spun Cotton Yarn produced on ring frame equipment; typically, this is a finer yarn, producing a softer hand. Ringer T-shirt, with solid body featuring ribbed crew neck and sleeve bands in a contrasting color. Ripstop Very fine woven fabric, often NYLON, with coarse, strong yarns spaced at intervals so that tears will not spread. Saddle Shoulder Variation of a raglan sleeve, where the shoulder portion forms a straight band cut in the same piece with the sleeve. It is seamed front and back parallel to the shoulder instead of at an angle as in raglan style. Seamless Tubular Collar Increases durability of collar and prevents splitting of collar seams. Self collar Collar comprised of the same type of piece goods used in the shirt body. The collar is made by sewing the two collar parts together with a lining in the center for support.As in tanks tops and ladies items Set-in Sleeves Style of sleeve, which is sewn into the shoulder seam. The seam is straight up and down from the shoulder seam to the underarm. as opposed to the neck in RAGLAN sleeves. Sherpa As garment is woven, the outside of the fabric is brushed with a wire brush to give the garment a very soft “fuzzy” feel. Shoulder-to-Shoulder Taping Shoulder seams, as well as neck seam are covered by tape or binding. This reinforces shoulder and neck seams, and reduces separation of the seams. Shrinkage Rate Approximately 4 - 5 % on most 100 % garments after pre-shrinking or compacting Sitka A long-lasting, super-waterproof coating made perfect for wet weather Structured Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn. Tactel Trademark of the Dupont Company, for filament nylon fiber. Talkeetna Design for all-season active outdoor sports, Talkeetna shells use Core Vents and our new Hyvent waterproof/breathable coating to help keep your body cool and dry. Tencel Trademark of Courtlands. The first new fiber to be introduced in over 50 years. Made from the natural cellulose found in trees especially grown for this purpose. When one tree is harvested another is planted. Characteristics * Very strong fiber * Soft, smooth hand * Excellent DRAPE when worn * Machine washable & Dryable * Low shrinkage * Wrinkle resistance Undervisor The colored material on the bottom side of the visor. Years ago, the undervisor was always green because this color was considered easiest on the eyes. Today, however, we do have silver underbills, however, in most circumstances, the color of the undervisor matches the color of the cap. Unstructured/Unconstructed When there is no buckram in the crown of a cap. The cap only has shape when placed on the head. Visor Peak The front of the hat or cap that extends out from the front panel and acts as a sunshade. Also, a type of headwear that consists of the peak or sunshade only so that the top of the head is exposed. When referring to a full cap, visor is interchangeable with peak. V-notch Triangular 2-ply patch of material sewn to the front of the neck for decorative purposes. Waffle Stitch used in KNIT goods to produce a series of square waffle-like designs. Wales The individual loops of a course vertical rows of loops also, when referring to corduroy, the amount of ridges per inch in the fabric. Water-Repellant The characteristic of a fiber to resist wetting. Most water repellent garments have a COATING to achieve water repellence. Welted Sleeve Cuffs ONE piece of rib knit material sewn on the cuff, collar or placket of a shirt. Yarn dyeing Yarn, which has been dyed prior to the weaving of the goods; follows the spinning of the yarn. Yoke A part of a garment fitted closely to the shoulders. Abrasion Resistance The ability of a fabric to withstand loss of appearance or surface through surface wear or rubbing. Acrylic Fiber Generic name for man made fibers derived from polyacrylonitrile. Features a soft , woolly hand ; wash and wear performance ; brilliant high shade colors ; good sunlight and wrinkle resistance. Air Jet Spinning During Air Jet Spinning yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process , the fibers are stretched to the appropriate size , then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted , first in one direction , then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. The yarn is stabilized after each operation. Yarn produced on Air Jet pills less because the spinning process creates a tighter outer wrap which holds typically loose polyester fibers experienced in Open End Spinning in place. Fewer loose polyester fibers means less pilling. Argyle A popular design for knitted fabrics, both hand and machine knit. Two or three colors generally are used in a diamond-shaped pattern. Banded Fabric is folded double and sewn down. Refers to tee shirt collars and staff shirt sleeves Basketweave A variation of a plain weave in which two or more yarns weave alike in both the warpVertical and Filling Horizontal directions. The name probably derives from the similarity to basket work structures. The weave produces a rather LOOSE construction. Berber A texture very similar to Sherpa, but with a heavier, more woolen texture - used for Outerwear Bird's-eye A pattern that resembles a bird’s eye. Buckram backing Stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc. Also used to stabilize embroidery, edges. Burguntal Cloth Constructed from 100% nylon. This durable base fabric has a water repellent finish applied to the face, which prevents water drops from soaking into the back is coated with Polyurethane for added water resistance and wind protection. Byron Collar Collar with large points and not much of a roll; named after the English poet Lord Byron. Cap Sleeves Sleeve type used mainly in ladies styles but is also used in unisex styles. Standard tee sleeve length is approximately to the elbow. Cap sleeves would fall midway between the elbow and the shoulder. Carded Cotton Yarn that has been cleaned, aligned and formed into a continuous untwisted strand but has NOT gone through additional spinning processes like combing or ringspinning. Carding Preliminary process in yarn spinning. Fibers are separated and made into more parallel-untwisted strand called SLIVERS. This process also removes most of the impurities and a certain amount of short or broken fibers. Center line/ Center Crease Helps line up garment for screenprint or - if line is not actually centered,it is more difficult to center logo. Chevron A zigzag stitch VERY similar to Herringbone Colorfast A term used to describe fabrics of sufficient color retention so that no noticeable changes in shed takes place during the “normal” life of the garment. Constructed Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn. Coolmax Certification mark of the Dupont Company, for knitted fabrics made of POLYESTER fibers that are grooved on the outside to facilitate better wicking and moisture evaporation. Cordura Trademark of Dupont Company, for air-textured nylon yarn. Core Vents Efficiently dissipate excess body heat and perspiration vapor. Cotton Cotton is named for a shrubby plant genus Gossypium of the MALLOW family, for the fibers surrounding the seeds, and for the cloth woven from the spun fibers. Each of the seeds, which are contained in capsules, or bolls, is surrounded by white or cream-colored downy fibers that flatten and twist naturally as they dry. Cotton is tropical in origin but is now cultivated worldwide. It has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times. Coverseaming/Coverstitching Two needles to overlap the threads underneath, reinforcing the seams with a smooth layer of threads. looks similar to double needle stitching Crocking The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped a pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking. With the PIGMENT dye process this can occur if the garment is NOT washed before worn. CrossWinds Lightweight wind protection. CrossWinds shells are extremely packable and compressible. Denier Is to polyester as Singles is to cotton, however with Denier, the SMALLER the number of denier the THINNER the strand of polyester and the LARGER the number the THICKER the strand of polyester. This is the OPPOSITE of singles. Dobby When weaving fabric - geometric shapes are woven into the weaving pattern. DryPoint ™ Semi-Oxford A modified basket weave of 100% Nylon coated with Ether-based Poly Urethane. Extremely durable and absolutely waterproof. End-On-End An alternating color or striped effect. Enzyme Wash A fabric softening process that gives a soft hand to fabric and wears the color VERY slightly. Does NOT have a washed out look like PIGMENT DYE. Four-needle stitching Used to reinforce the waistband in shorts and sweatpants. French Placket Is to woven shirts as a set-on placket is to staff shirts. Glen Plaid Popular Scottish pattern for sportswear characterized by checks of two different sizes with similar color patterns. Made in many grades of fabric. Graded Collar The size of the collar changes proportionally with the size of the shirt. Greige Gray Goods Knitted or woven fabrics of all fibers in an unfinished state, after they have been woven and before dyeing or finishing. Grommet An eyelet of firm material ex Metal to strengthen or protect an opening. Gusset Insert as in the sleeve seam or side panel - Crossgrain crew to widen and strengthen. Hand The “feel” of a fabric or print. Heather Blended fibers combined to create a vari-colored effect; heather gray. Heathered fabric typically contains 3 fibers cotton, polyester or rayon. In any of the garments that ALPHA carries an ASH or BIRCH or Heather Grey, Steel Grey, Light Steel, etc. The name may vary per mill these colors are NEVER 100% Cotton. Another fiber MUST be added with the cotton in order to achieve the necessary color. PLEASE NOTE If a fabric contains 95% cotton it can be LEGALLY labeled 100% cotton, however, the mills that ALPHA carries will state the proper content on the garment label for these colors. HyventMicro Failleweave A 100% coated Nylon flat ribbed fabric that is waterproof, windproof and very breathable with excellent abrasion and durability characteristic. Treated with a Durable Water Repellant finish to shed water. Interlock Double knit construction makes this the heaviest of the 3 to a Jersey knit except both front and back of the fabric look is the tightest weave, gives the smoothest surface and the finest hand. Jacquard A design or pattern in the fabric and/or collar Kangaroo Pocket A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the Middle.See Also muff pocket Kasha lining A lining principally for jackets featuring cotton flannel, napped face and imitation chambray back Knapping Refers to the inside of a fleece garment. Garment fabric brushed with a wire brush to give a very soft hand. Kodel Polyester fiber created and trademarked by Eastman Kodak Co. Lisle Yarn Refers to type of yarn. This type of yarn has a soft hand is a very fine count singles and is 2 ply. Low Profile Any crown of a cap that is LESS than 4” in height. Not to be confused with DO have low profile caps that are STRUCTURED. Lyocell Generic name for TENCEL Marled Yarn Twisting a solid color yarn with a yarn of various colors to create a varied color effect. Medium Weight Classification for fabric of 22 to 24 single yarn, where the number of yarn denotes the overall fabric weight. Melton Wool A heavily felted non-lustrous fabric. The heaviest type is used in outerwear. Mercerization Treatment for fabric cotton yarn or cloth that swells the fiber and gives it LUSTER or shine. Slightly preshrinks yarn and makes it stronger. This also helps with dye acceptance and improves fabric absorbency. Moleskin Supposed to simulate fur of a mole. Carded cotton is knapped or brushed and then sheared for smoothness to provide a suede fur effect. MTR Fleece™ Maximum Thermal Retention A non-pilling, 100% polyester fleece that provides a soft, warm insulating layer. Weighing about half as much as wool, MTR Fleece™ is quick drying and remains warm even when wet. Muff pocket A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the middle. See also kangaroo pocket Nailhead A woven in or engineered design. Neoprene A generic name for a type of synthetic rubber. Nu-Blend Jerzees Trademark process of spinning yarn that virtually eliminates pilling. Omni-Dry™ Process keeps you dry and warm whatever the activity by drawing moisture to the fabric face where it wicks across the surface and evaporates. The rate of evaporation increases with the amount of moisture. Open End Spinning A system of spinning based on the concept of introducing twist to the yarn by rotating the yarn end at a gap in the flow of fibers between the delivery system and the yarn package; a much faster operation than ring spinning. Open-end yarn has a coarser hand than ring spun cotton. Oxford A modified plain or weave. Can be striped or checked by using groups of various colored yarn. Piece Dyed This term is used when the knitted cloth is dyed, prior to being assembled into a finished product. Pilling Accumulation of fibers on the surface of a fabric, caused by wear and washing. In 50/50 fabric, cotton fibers tear and become tangled with the stronger fibers on the surface of the higher cotton content results in less pilling. Pima Cotton Refers to type of cotton. Originally grown by the Pima Indians in the South West part of the United States. It’s natural color is yellow as opposed to white for other cotton. It’s a very fine, long staple refers to the length of the individual fibers cotton. It is a very soft and strong fiber that accepts dye well. Pinwale A very narrow ridge or rib in a fabric from 16 to 23 wales to the inch EX Pinwale corduroy. Pique Pee-kay A knit sometimes called LaCoste because that company popularized its a distinct right and wrong right side resembles a Honey Comb or a waffle and the wrong side is flat and a course firm hand an generally uses fine yarns. Placket A slit extending down the front of a shirt from the neck. The slit is usually secured with buttons Poly Nosic Type of fabric that has a TWILL texture with a VERY soft “silk like” feel. This fabric will also protect against 95% of the UV rays from the sun. Quarter Turning Eliminates the center line by rotating the shirt at 900 so that the fold line is then under the arms. Currently, imprinters like this feature because it eliminates the center line. Quilted jacket Jacket featuring a lining with two or more layers and a padded filling. Raglan A type of sleeve sewn in with seams slanting outward from the neck to the underarm. Reinforced Placket X-Box A square or rectangular sewn area used to strengthen and reinforce the bottom of a placket. Rib knit A form of knit fabric with vertical rows of knitting loops visible on both sides of the fabric features more elasticity than jersey knit. Ring Spun Cotton Yarn produced on ring frame equipment; typically, this is a finer yarn, producing a softer hand. Ringer T-shirt, with solid body featuring ribbed crew neck and sleeve bands in a contrasting color. Ripstop Very fine woven fabric, often NYLON, with coarse, strong yarns spaced at intervals so that tears will not spread. Saddle Shoulder Variation of a raglan sleeve, where the shoulder portion forms a straight band cut in the same piece with the sleeve. It is seamed front and back parallel to the shoulder instead of at an angle as in raglan style. Seamless Tubular Collar Increases durability of collar and prevents splitting of collar seams. Self collar Collar comprised of the same type of piece goods used in the shirt body. The collar is made by sewing the two collar parts together with a lining in the center for support.As in tanks tops and ladies items Set-in Sleeves Style of sleeve, which is sewn into the shoulder seam. The seam is straight up and down from the shoulder seam to the underarm. as opposed to the neck in RAGLAN sleeves. Sherpa As garment is woven, the outside of the fabric is brushed with a wire brush to give the garment a very soft “fuzzy” feel. Shoulder-to-Shoulder Taping Shoulder seams, as well as neck seam are covered by tape or binding. This reinforces shoulder and neck seams, and reduces separation of the seams. Shrinkage Rate Approximately 4 - 5 % on most 100 % garments after pre-shrinking or compacting Sitka A long-lasting, super-waterproof coating made perfect for wet weather Structured Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn. Tactel Trademark of the Dupont Company, for filament nylon fiber. Talkeetna Design for all-season active outdoor sports, Talkeetna shells use Core Vents and our new Hyvent waterproof/breathable coating to help keep your body cool and dry. Tencel Trademark of Courtlands. The first new fiber to be introduced in over 50 years. Made from the natural cellulose found in trees especially grown for this purpose. When one tree is harvested another is planted. Characteristics * Very strong fiber * Soft, smooth hand * Excellent DRAPE when worn * Machine washable & Dryable * Low shrinkage * Wrinkle resistance Undervisor The colored material on the bottom side of the visor. Years ago, the undervisor was always green because this color was considered easiest on the eyes. Today, however, we do have silver underbills, however, in most circumstances, the color of the undervisor matches the color of the cap. Unstructured/Unconstructed When there is no buckram in the crown of a cap. The cap only has shape when placed on the head. Visor Peak The front of the hat or cap that extends out from the front panel and acts as a sunshade. Also, a type of headwear that consists of the peak or sunshade only so that the top of the head is exposed. When referring to a full cap, visor is interchangeable with peak. V-notch Triangular 2-ply patch of material sewn to the front of the neck for decorative purposes. Waffle Stitch used in KNIT goods to produce a series of square waffle-like designs. Wales The individual loops of a course vertical rows of loops also, when referring to corduroy, the amount of ridges per inch in the fabric. Water-Repellant The characteristic of a fiber to resist wetting. Most water repellent garments have a COATING to achieve water repellence. Welted Sleeve Cuffs ONE piece of rib knit material sewn on the cuff, collar or placket of a shirt. Yarn dyeing Yarn, which has been dyed prior to the weaving of the goods; follows the spinning of the yarn. Yoke A part of a garment fitted closely to the shoulders.

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